Site Development in Kearneysville, WV

Clearing and stripping topsoil, cutting the pad to grade, building it back with compacted stone, and shaping the ground around it so water runs away from the building rather than under it. Getting the drainage right at this stage is what keeps the floor dry for the next twenty years.

Bigger than most people plan for. Your crew needs room to work around the outside, and the pad edge needs to extend past the building so water sheds off it rather than soaking in at the wall line. We'll size it with you when we stake it out.

It depends on length, width, how much material the base needs, and whether the ground has to be cut and ditched first. A short flat drive on firm ground is a different job from a long one across soft ground on a slope. We measure it and put a number in writing.

Almost always water or base. Either the drive has no crown and water runs down it instead of off it, or there's not enough stone over soft ground and the base is pumping up through the surface. Adding more stone to the top doesn't fix either one — it has to be cut, shaped and rebuilt.

Usually yes. An entrance onto a state-maintained road generally requires approval from the Division of Highways, which covers pipe size and where the entrance can go. We'll tell you what your location needs before we cut anything.

That's set by how much water the ditch carries, not by preference. Undersized pipe backs water up and washes out your entrance in the first hard storm. On a state road the approving authority typically specifies it; elsewhere we size it off the ditch and the drainage area above you.

Yes — silt fence, stone construction entrances, seeding and straw. On permitted jobs it's required, and on unpermitted ones it's still the thing that keeps your topsoil on your property and mud off the county road.

Yes. Storm runs, culverts, cross drains and outfall protection, usually planned alongside the erosion and sediment control since both deal with where water goes once the ground is open. On permitted jobs the two tend to get reviewed together.

Yes. Give us the prints and we'll build to the plan elevations. We can also work off stakes set by a surveyor, or lay it out with you on site for jobs that don't have a formal plan, which most barn and shop pads don't.

A straightforward pad on decent ground is often a couple of days. Add clearing, a long driveway, significant cut and fill, or rock, and it grows from there. Weather matters more on this work than most — you can't compact saturated ground properly and it's not worth pretending otherwise.

Yes. It gets stripped and stockpiled at the start rather than buried or hauled off, then respread over the disturbed areas around the pad at the end and seeded. Topsoil is worth keeping — buying it back later costs real money.